The breakfast spread at the Monte Puertatierra was even
better than the parador’s buffet.
Multiple waiters were forever, changing out the cold meat trays, baskets of
bread of plates of fruit, even the bowls of homemade yogurt were
constantly replenished, nothing was
allowed to have less than 50% available before it was rushed to the kitchen to
be refreshed. The Jefe of the hotel was continually walking the restaurant
asking patrons how they liked the food and service. Really something to behold firsthand. Nice
chap!
We opted to try the Cadiz Hop On and Off Bus and were able
to buy single day tickets at the hotel
front desk for 18€ a piece. We struck out for the #4 stop just a block of
two down from the hotel along the beachfront. These buses give you a good
perspective of the city and besides what is wrong with a rolling history
lesson? Cadiz was founded by the Phoenicians
and is the reputedly the oldest, continuously inhabited city (still standing)
in Western Europe. 1104 BC people! That
is old! As with most of these cities with ancient beginnings many, tribes,
shall we say have had a hand in shaping it. The Phoenicians were first,
Carthage , followed by Hannibal and then the Romans. We are still BC here. The Romans
hung out here for quite a while and Gades (as it was then) rivaled only by Rome
and Padua in the number of wealthy, upper class with digs here. The Romans were
overthrown by the Visigoths , then……well who the heck knows? Everyone wanted a
piece of this real estate. Moors were driven out by Alphonso X in 1262 and the
reconquista had begun. 
Columbus sailed from here on his second and fourth voyages
(remember he sailed from Sanlucar on his third) It was here that Sir Francis
Drake singed the King of Spain’s beard by occupying the harbor for three days ,
captured six ships and destroyed 31 others. Its history continued to be violent
and checkered but also very important. The first Spanish Constitution was
signed here in1812 but it was considered too liberal for some! Fascinating
place altogether and much more to it than I can write here or you want to
read. The Guadalquivir started silting
up in the 18th century (which answers one of my questions!) and
trade with the Americas was transferred from Seville to here.
The bus ride took several hours and we got off at the
cathedral for a Bitter Kas and a wander
around. Jane went into the cathedral while Paul scoped out places for lunch. I
remembered I had been in here before. It is less elaborate than some and the
crypt is large and below sea level. The domed ceilings are flaking a bit and
nets have been hung to catch the bits! We passed the new Parador too and were
very disappointed with its modern appearance. We should have gone in to check
it out but…….
We had 100 Montaditos for lunch and we captured a prime spot
under an umbrella and indulged in a little watching. Then we tried to find the
same place in the backstreets that Paul wanted
for alubias con gambas, which was unsuccessful and after a lot of
aimless wandering we made our down to
Plaza de Espana again to catch the #1 bus back to our digs. Paul was still somewhat
hungry so we stopped at the Bar El 12 again for crab salad and a cold one.
Really in need of a siesta today!
 |
| My Tilley on 3ft square tile!! |
I do love the way there is always a Paseo Maritmo next to
the Ocean. The beach is lovely and, I discovered, filled in and groomed before
the season. There are sea walls along the coast and they have no dunes, just a
high wall protecting the land. No tacky beach shops, all local people, so nice.
They have restaurants/bars ( chiringitos) right on the beach, not many, just
one every few hundred yards. Showers, WCs etc.
We stopped for dinner on the beach. Beautiful temperature and breeze. It
was 8.30 and people were still in the water and lying on the beach. I needed a burger with caramelized onions and
goat cheese, it was awesome!
We headed back for a nightcap. Another long day with a lot
of walking( nearly 11,000 steps) I really like this city.
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